This is only one article on OVE versus OVH. Neither one is wrong or right, it is a choice - pure and simple.

I have always found the articles in The Whole Dog Journal very interesting. There is much to learn from this humble magazine dedicated to dogs and cats, etc., from great food articles, training, newest techniques, toys, etc. This is why I decided to post it below. There are many, many more - just use the Internet! Lots of arguments for and against can be found which is why it took me so long to finally make a decision.

I would be agreeable to do either one if any of my clients felt strongly towards one or the other. The only decision I will not agree to is not spaying/neutering at all.


A New and Safer Way to Spay Your Puppy

92

Fewer complications result from removal of only the dog’s ovaries.

By Nancy Kay, DVM

Making a fresh look at the things we take for granted can be wonderfully enlightening. Sometimes, the little light bulb overhead begins to sizzle and sparkle, illuminating a new and better way of doing things. Consider this example: When some savvy veterinarians took a fresh look at performing spays, a surgery we’ve been doing the exact same way for decades, they came up with a revised technique that accomplishes all of the objectives of the spay surgery with fewer complications. How cool is that?

Spay is the term used for neutering a female dog. As I was taught in veterinary school, the medical jargon for spaying is ovariohysterectomy (OVH). “Ovario” refers to ovaries, “hyster” refers to uterus, and “ectomy” means removal of. In other words, spaying the traditional way involves surgical removal of the uterus and both ovaries. The objectives of the spay surgery are to render the dog infertile, eliminate the mess and behavioral issues associated with a female dog in heat, and prevent diseases that may afflict the uterus and ovaries later in life.

Thanks to some innovative veterinarians, we now know that ovariectomy (OVE) – removal of just the ovaries, leaving the uterus in place – accomplishes these objectives just as effectively as does the OVH. And, here’s the icing on the cake: removal of the ovaries alone results in fewer complications when compared to removal of the ovaries and uterus combined.

Female canine anatomyHere’s a simple short course in canine female reproductive anatomy and physiology that will help explain why leaving the uterus behind makes sense. The shape of the uterus resembles the capital letter “Y.” The body of the uterus is the stem and the two uterine horns represent the top bars of the “Y.” An ovary is connected to the free end of each uterine horn by a delicate structure called a fallopian tube (transports the egg from the ovary into the uterus).

While the uterus has only one purpose (housing developing fetuses), the ovaries are multitaskers. They are the source of eggs of course and, in conjunction with hormones released by the pituitary gland, ovarian hormones dictate when the female comes into heat and becomes receptive to the male, when she goes out of heat, when she ovulates, and when her uterus is amenable to relaxing and stretching to house developing fetuses.

After the ovaries (and the hormones they produce) have been removed from the body, the uterus remains inert. The dog no longer shows symptoms of heat, nor can she conceive. Additionally, any chance of developing ovarian cystic disease or cancer is eliminated.

Better outcome
What happens when we leave the uterus behind? Isn’t it subject to becoming diseased later in life? Actually, the incidence of uterine disease in dogs whose ovaries have been removed is exceptionally low. Pyometra (pus within the uterus), is the most common uterine disorder in unspayed dogs, and typically necessitates emergency surgery to remove the uterus.

Without the influence of progesterone, a hormone produced by the ovaries, pyometra does not naturally occur. The incidence of uterine cancer is extremely low in dogs (0.4 percent of all canine tumors) – hardly a worry, and studies have shown that the frequency of adult onset urinary incontinence (urine leakage) is the same whether or not the uterus is removed during the spay procedure.

If you are not already convinced that the “new spay is the better way,” consider the following complications that can be mitigated or avoided all together when the uterus remains unscathed:

• Compared to an OVH, an OVE requires less time in the operating room. This translates into decreased likelihood of anesthetic complications.
• Removal of the uterus requires that the surgeon perform more difficult ligations (tying off of large blood vessels and surrounding tissues with suture material before making cuts to release the organs from the body). A uterine body ligation that isn’t tied quite tightly enough can result in excessive bleeding into the abdominal cavity and may necessitate blood transfusions and/or a second surgery to stop the bleeding.
• The ureters (thin delicate tubes that transport urine from each kidney to the bladder) run adjacent to the body of the uterus. If a surgeon is not being extremely careful, it is possible to ligate and obstruct a ureter in the course of removing the uterus. This devastating complication requires a second corrective surgery; however, damage to the affected ureter and adjoining kidney may be irreversible.
• Removal of the uterus occasionally results in the development of a “stump granuloma” – a localized inflammatory process that develops within the small portion of uterus that is left behind. When this occurs a second “clean up surgery” is typically required.
• We know that the degree of post-operative patient discomfort correlates with the degree of surgical trauma. No question, of the two surgical options the OVH creates more trauma.

European veterinarians have been performing OVEs rather than OVHs for years. In fact, the bulk of the research supporting the benefits of leaving the uterus behind has been conducted in Europe.

Slowly, veterinarians in the United States are catching on, and some veterinary schools are now preferentially teaching OVE rather than OVH techniques to their students.

What should you do if you are planning to have your dog spayed? Talk with your veterinarian about this article. Perhaps OVE surgery is already his or her first choice. If not, perhaps your vet will be willing to take a fresh look at performing this old-fashioned surgery.

Nancy Kay, DVM, is a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM) and recipient of the  American Animal Hospital Association 2009 Animal Welfare and Humane Ethics Award. She is also author of Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life, and a staff internist at VCA Animal Care Center in Rohnert Park, California.

HORMONE CREAMS! Be very aware of how this can affect your puppy/dog!

Many of us are not aware of how these creams can cause grave concern for our pets but PLEASE if you use hormone creams of any type be aware of how it can be transferred not only to your pets but children too.

Hormone Cream Is Poisoning Dogs

May 3, 201212:42 PM MST

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When I received the information in a newsletter about hormone cream poisoning dogs, I thought I'd learn about dogs actually biting into a tube of estrogen or progesterone cream. As it turns out, this may or may not be the case. It's true that dogs are known for getting into things they shouldn't. Reports show most dogs are either physically rubbing up against their owners or licking them. This causes a transference from the inner arm (where the hormone cream is usually applied) onto the dog.

Women need to remember to wash their hands after applying hormone cream, as some may remain on their hands and be transferred to their dog.

Please note that hormone cream poisoning is equally dangerous to other pets that come in contact with it. It is also a danger to children. How many grandmother's out there rock their grandchildren to sleep? Ladies, are you cradling your loved ones and accidentally exposing them to these hormones?

Hormone cream users need to keep an eye out for the symptoms of hormone poisoning. Even the bio-identical's can cause problems when transferred to an animal or a child.

Symptoms of hormonal poisoning in female dogs mimic heat. Engorged genitals, bloody discharge and behavioral issues. Many dog owners have taken their spayed dogs back to the veterinarian and at first everyone was stumped. A few dogs underwent additional needless surgery by uninformed veterinarians to ensure the spaying was done properly.

Many male dogs were seen with engorged breasts and hair loss.

Anemia and diarrhea are the most immediate reactions when a dog is exposed to hormone cream.

Dogs can recover from the initial symptoms, but the long term effects are unknown. Problems may include aplastic anemia, mammary tumors and a higher percentage of developing breast cancer.

A few ways to keep the cream away from pets and children include:

*Wash hands after using cream;

*Cover the area with a bandage;

*Apply cream to inner thighs or stomach away from where children and pets may rub against it.

This is an important article to pass along to those you know who are on hormone replacement cream. Especially if they have pets, young children or grandchildren.

Also do all you can to make pediatricians and veterinarians aware of this. They are the first in line to see these poisonings and many don't think to look for hormone poisoning. Informing the medical profession that this problem exists may save an animal or child many expensive tests. Not to mention precious time in a diagnosis.

Seek veterinary help immediately if you suspect your dog has ingested hormone cream. Be sure to take the tube to the vet so appropriate treatment can be administered to your dog. Don't wait for a reaction and hope your dogs recovers without veterinary care. Dogs get into things. I've never known a dog who didn't. Your vet will understand and know how to treat the symptoms much better than you do.

The 'term' I.C. - Incorrect Coat or Furnishings - What does this mean?

Under my CURRENT BREEDERS testing protocol, you will notice the inclusion of  'I.C.' or the term 'recessive for I.C. which means that doodle is a "Carrier".  This is NOT a health issue at all - it just means that puppies may have a smooth face like an Irish Water Spaniel but still have lots of curls, waves, etc. on the rest of their body.

This is what every Irish Water Spaniel looks like and is proper for that breed.  So having a smooth face is not the 'look' we strive for in a Labradoodle but it is not unhealthy. Actually, many people like a smooth face as there is no facial hair to keep trimming; no water drops from drinking, no eye 'boggers', no beards to get dirty, etc.  HOWEVER, it is not the preferred 'look', so breeders like myself try to minimize the expression by testing and choosing mates that will not produce one.

If I were to breed Dancing Matilda aka Tillie to Jaxon, the resulting litter could produce SOME puppies with smooth faces like the above Irish Water Spaniel because both Tillie and Jaxon are Carriers of the IC gene.  So, I am looking for a different stud to use that will produce the parti pattern but be clear of IC.  We will see how successful I will be.  

Happily, Tillie is not in cycle yet, so I am keeping fingers crossed I will find what I am looking for by the time she is ready.  If not, I may attempt the breeding with Jaxon and hope I will find families that would not mind a smooth face and be happy with the wonderful temperaments these two will produce. I know temperament should be the most important point in purchasing a doodle, but most want it to have 'the look' of a doodle just like people want the 'look' of the spaniel above. 

A definition I embrace...

Recently, I was reading articles about different breeds and came across a very common sense definition of what a dog breed is:

The following excerpt from the University of Oklahoma's website:

"...this definition from The Genetics of Populations by Jay L. Lush helps explain why a good definition of "breed" is elusive.

"A breed is a group of domestic animals, termed such by common consent of the breeders, ... a term which arose among breeders of livestock, created one might say, for their own use, and no one is warranted in assigning to this word a scientific definition and in calling the breeders wrong when they deviate from the formulated definition. It is their word and the breeders common usage is what we must accept as the correct definition."

Sometimes, when I read something, a light goes on in my head.  The above quote makes so much sense. When man met dog, it was 'a convenience'.  Both could offer something to each other which was of benefit. It was not defined by some 'expert' sitting at his computer to tweak how the next 'breed' should look. Each dog type developed a relationship based on need, companionship, ability, intuitiveness, structural design and temperament. How sad that this incredible journey between man and his beast has been reduced to a beauty pageant by organizations such as the AKC and other dog fancier clubs.  I often wonder why such organizations place so much on 'looks' rather than health.  What these show boats have done over the years is create slumping spines on Shepherds, breathing difficulties on English Bulldogs, cranial issues with King Charles Spaniels..... the list is endless, all in the name of a 'look'. What happened to the DNA that each original breed contributed to its offspring that defined itself as a sighthound, for instance?  Or a herding breed?  Or a foot warmer, for that matter!

The common sense expressed in the above quote gives me hope that the future of our breeds will be allowed to go back to their roots and be rewarded for historic value based on performance. I doubt it will ever happen but that is why I breed Labradoodles - a hybrid that DOES allow breeders, like myself, to make breeding decisions not on how many champions are in a pedigree but instead on complimentary temperaments and solid health scores.  I am so grateful that hybrids such as Cockapoos, Goldendoodles, Labradoodles, Schnoodles, Maltipoos and others are winning over the general public BECAUSE of their diversity.  Let's not forget how cute they are as well!

Get a cup of tea or perhaps a pot of tea and watch this video for a real eye opener about the negative impact shows and clubs have done to dog breeds.  It is long, disturbing and so true.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9jROjFPAis&feature=youtube_gdata_player

A novel method of training: Flexible - Affordable - Personal

What do you mean 'I can train my puppy while driving to work'?  Huh??

'Finding a training center that has classes that work with my schedule is difficult as most of them are in the evening, when I am not at my best.'

'I can't train my puppy when the kids are constantly interrupting.'

Do any of the above scenarios sound familiar?  What if I could provide you with a training approach that can work within your optimal time frame - even if you are driving, eating, vacationing, bicycling, or going for a walk?  In other words - during a time that fits your lifestyle.

I had a wonderful conversation today with an inventive trainer that offers a unique puppy program for breeder clients as well as pet owners. Most people cannot resist the cuteness of a puppy; but raising one to not bite your ankles, or pull on the leash or jump up on everyone takes commitment, time, patience and energy. Each puppy and family is unique with special circumstances so puppy training should never be approached as a 'one size fits all'.  With that said, I hope you will take a few minutes of your time to read what this training style has to offer.  I found it to be a fascinating method that offers so many opportunities to train your puppy effortlessly.

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Congratulations on the new addition to your family!

Welcoming a puppy into your home is such an exciting time and whether you are taking your first steps into the dog ownership world or you are a seasoned pro, I know you will have many questions about training and getting ready for the big day.  

This is a great opportunity to ensure a smooth transition for you and your new puppy from the first day they arrive home. We will cover even the smallest of details so you'll be able to move into this new phase of your life with the confidence and knowledge that will enable you to enjoy all the wonderful experiences a new puppy brings to a home. We will discuss preparing your home and yard, healthcare that will be required in the first year, doggie first aid, nutrition, adjusting your schedule(s) to meet the puppy's or dog's needs, crate training, housebreaking, how to get the puppy to sleep through the night, their developmental stages and supplies you will need. You’ll have many questions, I'm sure, and I am more than happy to answer them all for you so you can start your new life together fully prepared and with as little anxiety as possible! The Right Start Program is a series of 6 classes are essentially based on a 'train the trainer' methodology. You will learn the skills required to teach your puppy proper social skills and basic obedience commands.   We'll start by discussing the most immediate topics just before you are scheduled to bring your puppy home, including any specific requirements you have in your household. This will ensure you are well prepared for the first few days of puppy parenting. It is best to have the second appointment 1-2 days after the puppy arrives, so any immediate concerns or challenges can be handled swiftly and any new questions you have can be answered right away. The third class is usually timed a few days later to ensure everything is going smoothly and you have a strong training foundation in place. This is the biggest portion of the adjustment time and learning curve that you will experience so it is vital to have all the support that you’ll need. We will do some review of previous training and then begin to move on to leash training, teaching the puppy to ‘sit’, and the ‘off’ command should be reinforced at this time to make sure the puppy will not jump up on people when they are older. The next 3 classes are about a week apart and we will cover new topics or skills each time, as well as do some review for the previous appointments. The amount of material we will be covering in this first month may look like an endless list homework but don’t start to panic! You will be surprised at how much of it is second nature to you. All of this will be broken down for you in easy to follow steps and it won't be nearly as challenging as it seems at the moment.  I have done this coaching many, many times and everyone mastered it quickly and easily. The cost of the 6 - 1 hour Right Start Classes is $350 including all taxes. This is a $100 discount off the regular price of $450 with your Breeder’s coupon code.  I have provided a detailed outline of the complete Right Start Program for your reference. Right Start Program detailed outline: Class 1 of 6: 1 wk to 3 days before arrival supplies, housebreaking, crate training, night time, schedules Class 2 of 6: 1-2 days after arrival housebreaking review, night time review, crate training review, nipping and biting, hierarchy Class 3 of 6: 3-4 days after arrival housebreaking follow-up, night time follow-up, crate training follow-up, nipping & biting review, developmental stages, leash training 1, sit command, off command Class 4 of 6: 10-14 days after arrival nipping & biting follow-up, sit review, off review, nutrition, first year health care, social skills, come command Class 5 of 6: 3 weeks after arrival come review, sit follow-up, off follow-up, leave it command, mine command, down command, leash training 1 review Class 6 of 6: 4 weeks after arrival leash training 1 follow-up, out command, first aid, final review, next steps Many of the skills are practiced and reinforced while you are enjoying play time with your puppy, not in formal training sessions.  Let's face it, all work and no play just isn't fun!  Plus, your puppy is pretty much ADD at this age so that would be setting you both up for failure!  Think about it more like guiding or mentoring, instead of instructing. My techniques instill gentle, loving, consistent leadership that will provide great bonding opportunities and ensure you will have a happy, content and well-behaved best friend. I know all of the wonderfully rich experiences you are about to enjoy and am so excited for you! I look forward to talking to you soon and your first homework assignment is to get your camera ready. Take lots of pictures and videos and remember to embrace every moment along this journey. They just grow up so darn fast! Sincerely, Tammy

To register for the Right Start Program call Tammy at

905-776-3255

COUPON CODE: 0031

Why use Skype, FaceTime or Google Hangouts or phone conferencing?

One of the most important advantages of these methods is you are able to begin training, and receive valuable support during a critical period, without exposing your puppy to locations frequented by other dogs. Until puppies are 16 weeks old they are not fully protected from common illnesses, even if their vaccination schedule is followed diligently. Simply allowing the puppy a washroom break in an area frequented by many dogs exposes them to significant risk.

Isolating them from other dogs does not mean limiting their exposure to experiences. Puppies have the ability to learn so much, even at 2 months of age, and your skills as a handler have such an impact on their successes. They have so much ability and potential! Just imagine leaving the vet’s office after their final vaccine and expertly walking your well behaved puppy out to explore their great new world.

Phone and video conferencing from your computer or any mobile device also removes the geographical barriers that make physical classes so challenging to attend.  You are able to schedule calls during your daily commute, between classes at school or your work appointments, when the kids are napping, or even on your lunch break! There is no set time on a specified day (ie. 4pm every Tuesday) as you are in full control of your own scheduling.  This is ideal for people with fluctuating work hours and if something does come up unexpectedly, you can reschedule quickly and easily from a computer or any mobile device.

There is no travel time, which can be significant, and when each family member is on a different schedule, it does make it easier to find a free hour for everyone to be able to participate. You can even have your nanny or sitter join in from their home which helps provide consistency in the training techniques for your puppy.  Eliminating the commuting factor can be a huge advantage and take a lot of pressure off when trying to coordinate a time that works well. You could be in the comfort of your home for one class and the next week, join your family in a group conference from your hotel room in Singapore!

I have been providing training sessions in person and by phone with families (for their puppies) since 2004 with great success. Our conversations allow me to gather precise information that is key to the success of the training. It also enables me to explain why I am choosing one technique over another for your specific situation.  What works for one household often won't work for another and that is what sets personalized, private dog and puppy training so far above all of the other training methods. Skype, FaceTime and Google Hangouts add an extra visual dimension to the phone call, and all these methods work brilliantly!

If you have a Skype, FaceTime or Gmail account you are all ready. I’ll contact you for each appointment and you simply have your application open, or be ready with your phone. This technology is available to us free of charge and it’s easy to use. Why not take advantage of it?

Please read this link on VACCINES!

So many pet owners are really intimidated by their vets and the vaccine protocol.  Repeated vaccines are NOT needed in many, many cases and you, as a pet owner, need to read and understand how REPEATED, unnecessary vaccines do not help your pet at all.  Please take the time to read this link.  Copy it and bring it to your vet to state your reason for not doing annual shots!

http://www.wsava.org/sites/default/files/New%20Puppy%20Owner%20Vaccination%20Guidelines%20May%202013

This is another link just published in 2013 - PLEASE take the time to read it!
http://www.carepaw.com/2010/05/13/new-vaccination-protocol/

Flea and Tick treatments.

PLEASE research reactions on any and all Flea and Tick treatments before putting on your pet.  There have been numerous reactions to Vectra, Advantix, Frontline etc.  A lot of dogs that have the worse reactions are cream or smaller dogs BUT don't let that give you a sense of security.  Ask questions, look for Google sites that explain about the ingredients and don't think your vet knows everything.  Remember, they ARE a business.

Consider using a natural remedy like products that contain Lemongrass, Citronella, Peppermint, Rosemary or Thyme oils.  Dab it on a scarf and put that on your dog.  Remember dogs have a much more sensitive nose than we do, so you don't need much.  It may not be as effective as the commercial products but none of the commercial products are 100% effective.  They are, however, 100% chemical based.  There is no perfect solution to these pests except you checking your dogs and removing the ticks as soon as possible and frequent baths during this time.

I don't have a magic pill but I refuse to knowingly put chemicals on my doodles here at home that I know can cause such awful reactions.  So far, I have been quite happy with using natural ingredient herbal oils.  Insects are highly sensitive to smell and heat, so if the 'smell' of the oils repels them, they won't land to bite.   Just be sure to spray your dogs daily or dab on the scarfs.

Some sites I have used with decent results are:

• Green Hope Farms - They use flower essences
• The Natural Path in Dover, NH.  They have many blends for insect repellents
• Joyce Belcher of Herbs for Life at York, Maine  800-510-9597
• I like these two as well:  http://shop.mercola.com/catalog/fleas-and-ticks,99,9.htm for ticks, etc. and this one too for the same:  http://www.holisticfamilyandpets.com/  I use both these products and am happy with the results.  No, it is not 100% but neither are all the other chemical products recommended by your vets.

Consider the gentler alternatives to keep away these pests.  A recent update has been promoting a collar that is both children and pet friendly and also excellent for killing and controlling fleas and ticks.  It is called Seresto from Bayer.  It is an expensive collar ($50 to $70) BUT it lasts for about 8 months which is cheap for one season of protection from these nasty predators!  It is definitely worth looking into and comparing using the chemical based monthly spot ons versus the collar which still works when wet from swimming, etc. It has been used in Europe but is new to the U.S.  Read the reviews yourself and make an informed choice!

Let's talk about the term 'potty trained'.

As with so many things, the definition of 'potty trained' varies according to the person talking.  So, I would like to define what I consider 'potty trained'.

• The puppy TELLS you it needs to go outside to potty.  PLAIN AND SIMPLE.  How is this done?  By ringing a bell, by barking, by scratching at the door, by whining and looking at the door or by 'the stare'.  A potty trained puppy refuses to potty in your home and seeks someone to let them out to relieve themselves.  That is a potty trained puppy.  By the way, I DO NOT potty train my pups but I do expose them to the outdoors to 'go potty' with a command.  I do provide the bells to help YOU train them to 'ask to go outdoors' to potty and I hope because of this exposure to use the outdoor bathroom that your job will be much more easy.

Now let me tell you what other people claim 'potty trained' means:

• When your other dogs go outside, the puppy follows and goes potty with them.  
• When YOU take the pup outside, it does potty with or without the command to do so.
• A puppy that uses a Dogie Door is NOT potty trained.  That is simply a convenience for the breeder to get them use to going outdoors.  I do this as well.
• A puppy that is litter box trained, is NOT potty trained.  Again, the pup has learned that this indoor 'toilet' is an approved area for depositing waste. 

Some puppies get this concept very quickly and others can take up to a year.  Be patient, be consistent and whatever you do, don't get frustrated or yell at the pup.  If YOU forgot to bring the pup outdoors, or time got away from you, or a visitor came/phone call/text message, etc., don't blame the pup, blame yourself!  Set a timer and have treats in hand to reward your new friend for his/her training efforts - the rewards will come very quickly (as compared to training a child!).

Puppy Training Tips for Tender Personalities & New Pups

When you first get your pup, you will want to do everything right but sometimes, what you think is 'right' is 'wrong'.  I sent home these pointers in my Olive x ARI litter and thought I should post them here so that everyone might use these tips for guiding your family and new pup in the right direction.

• Use a positive based training facility/trainer (no choke collars, 'hard handed' techniques, or negative based methods).  Be sure to check with your trainer choice that they use positive methods only.
• Don't smother your pup or try to protect them from what they might fear.  Instead, coax them using treats to confront but do so slowly and look for the smallest improvements.  If they fear a hydrant, let them approach it at their speed.  Don't force the introduction.
• Do not allow people or animals to run up to them.  Ask people to use low voices and sit down to allow the pup to approach them on their terms.  Give people a treat to give your pup and wait until your pup has more confidence to happily trot up to them to get a treat.
• Don't coddle!  If your pup shows any type of fear of anything, don't pick them up and coo to them!  You are re-enforcing the reason why they 'think' they should fear this person/thing/sound.  Yes, you can pick them up, but go in a different direction and put them back down.  Get a special toy to interact with them if it is a sound so that they realize the 'sound' does not hurt them but it DOES initiate playtime!  If they fear a dog, pick them up and move away from the dog that is scaring them but use a normal voice of confidence.  
• Lots of interaction with social dogs would be great but NOT dog parks!  You never know what type of dog is at a dog park and one bad experience could be very detrimental to your pup.  Stay away until your pup has built up enough confidence to not be overwhelmed.  So visit friends with friendly dogs; go to Petco to meet and greet with other people and dogs; go for walks; car rides; Home Depot allows dogs; garden centers are fine with dogs; and always make your excursions positive ones.
• Car sickness:  Short trips at first.  Sometimes just placing your pup in the car in the driveway and giving it treats for a few days is all you should do.  Then a treat after you drive around the block; and lastly a short trip to get an ice cream.  All positive until they get very excited when you say 'Let's go for a ride'!
• Whining - expect it.  They are not going to have their siblings with them anymore.  They need to make new friends but it will take some time.  Be patient.  Place a blanket over their crate if it gets too loud but don't give in.  If it is very loud and pitiful, wait for a split second that they are not whining to take them outside for a potty break, etc.  DO NOT PUT THEM IN BED WITH YOU!  Worse mistake you can ever make.  People and dogs should not be 'equal'.  Dogs should always be on the bottom ladder.  This does not mean they should be ignored, but it is important that they learn YOU are the provider for their food and comfort.  Respect equals food and high places equal 'status' in the dog world - hence no beds until your pup fully understands his place in your family.  When they are trained fully, then you can invite them up on your bed for a cuddle.  :+)
• One more item to address:  NEVER allow your pup/dog to remain on your lap if it should ever growl at a person or another dog.  When a pup or dog does this, they are showing 'you are their possession'.  This should not be.  The pup/dog should be immediately placed off your lap and asked to lie down or sit.  Doing this every time will re-enforce their status within your family.

Trainers and training philosophies change often.  You need to find the ones that make the most sense to you and more than ever - ones that you know you can train with successfully.

A REFERENCE Page.

Many times, I have been asked to provide potential buyers with references.  Since I value people's privacy and don't like to keep asking for their permission to send out emails or phone numbers, I am going to have a REFERENCE post on the Point's To Ponder segment of this AnnaBlog.

I have already emailed my customer list to ask for a 'report card'.  :+)

Puppy Mill Disquise

I know many of my customers are savvy enough to want to visit where their potential puppy will be coming from, but so many are mislead by Puppy Brokers.  Here is a link to send to any one you know that is considering purchasing a pup from this type of 'Purebred AKC Broker'.  Sadly, it is very common and brings tears to my eyes that these babies (and mommas) are raised this way.  :+(

BE AWARE of Puppy Mills and all their disguises!

A book getting rave reviews for bringing a pup into a home with children.

Many breeders have told me that this is the BEST book to purchase if you are bringing a puppy into your family.  It is called:   RAISING PUPPIES AND KIDS TOGETHER - A GUIDE FOR PARENTS
by Pia Silvani and Lynn Eckhardt.

It can be bought at most book stores or Internet 'shopping malls'.  I believe I saw it on Dogwise.  It is roughly $18.00 and am told 'worth it'!  So it might be the one book that you might want to read before Miss or Master Fido comes home to you.

:+)

VACCINES, again....!

It is my hope that many of my customers check here every now and again for updates. Vaccines are a huge part of your doodles vet visits and it is my hope that you will read this link and perhaps rethink your yearly vaccine protocol offered by your vet's office.

http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2009/08/04/when-it-comes-to-vaccinating-your-pet-less-is-more.aspx

I know all of you want to do what is best, but sometimes the adage 'less is more' is exactly what needs to be done. As you all know, I am not an advocate of excessive vaccines. I do embrace a holistic approach to most issues and believe that building strong immune systems provides your pet with the best weapons for fighting issues - not vaccines or topical preventatives.

Joyce

When something is not what it seems....

In yesterdays mail, I received this very nice letter from the 'National Association of Professional Woman' - NAPW explaining to me that my 'membership' was approved. Huh?

This just makes me wonder how I 'became invited'. I was never contacted nor did I ask to be considered. Since neither occurred, I asked myself just how 'special' is this letter? Is it sent to thousands and thousands of women across the country at random? If so, it diminishes its impact and is definitely misleading as I did nothing to warrant this invitation.

Perhaps other women/breeders would be gushing with enthusiasm to have received such a glowing invite . I guess, I am so traditional, that I believe you need to earn such recognition through much effort and achievement not simply as a result of a mass mailing!

Oh, did I mention that it included a stamped return card to join its membership? I had to smile that any woman would see this as anything more than a marketing ploy.

I wanted to post this here to show the general public that 'not all accolades' published on a website have value. Sometimes, it is just more marketing rhetoric.

I 'filed' it in the circular bin. I much prefer a personal communication from my clients telling me they are happy with the quality and service of my program. :+)

Car Sickness

This is an excellent suggestion about what to do with a pup/dog who gets car sick. I hope many of you will read it and try it out if you ever have such an issue. :+) Joyce

Car Sickness

The first thing to realize when dealing with car sickness is that in 95 percent of cases it is stress related and not motion related. The most powerful memory imprint of any dog's brain is probably the car ride when it was taken away from all it ever new to be safe and secure, its litter mates and its mother. The most traumatic memory a young dog has is in relation to a ride in a car. So it's not surprising that subsequent rides in a car should evoke very strong mental and subsequent physical trauma.

How Can I Make My Dog Feel Better?

The solution is very simple. If the dog has been sick in a car then estimate how long it was in the car before it was sick, say 20 minutes? Find a park about 5-10 minutes from home, preferably one just around the corner, even one within walking distance that the dog has been to before.... but this time drive there. Ideally have someone else in the car too, to soothe the dog and distract him from the ride. Keep him happy all the way to the park. When at the park do all the enjoyable things that the dog loves, fetch the ball, chase the Frisbee, frolic with dad, etc. The stay at the park doesn't need to be that long.... just as enjoyable as possible. Then drive the dog home soothing him all the way again and when home make just as much fuss of the dog as you did at the park. Finish the session with his meal or a treat if time and conditions permit.

This exercise is repeated several times a day or daily if time is limited. Once the dog is enthusiastic to go in the car then the length of the trip is lengthened slightly to 10-15 minutes etc. Once you can drive with the dog for 30 minutes with no signs of stress or anxiety then you have the problem pretty much licked. Some dogs may take a little longer than others. The idea is for as many happy repetitions as possible to overwrite the initial mental imprint the dog has from its youth (or whatever other event caused the initial trauma).

I have had a (client's) dog that suffered from chronic carsickness totally 'cured' (if that is the right term) in 3 days. That was with five car trips per day over the three-day period. The owners were impressed (even if I say so myself) and I am still getting referrals from them as a result.

This method has always worked, but I have heard of one dog that was sick due to some kind of balance problems and this method didn't work for it. A trip to the vet after the method failed brought the problem to the surface. But if it only works for 95 percent of the dogs it's used on then I think it's quite successful!

Train with trust not fear.

Article written by:
David the Dogman
Extracted with permission from David the Dogman's A-Z Guide to Dogs
www.thedogman.net

A country vet talks about vaccines, heartworm and Lyme Disease.

I found this immensely interesting and feel it would be worth a few minutes for you to listen. Just a different take on the subjects.

Vaccines 101

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBSt1rk-J6s&feature=related

This link is information regarding "Lyme Vaccine"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtGpak0XVsQ&NR=1

Heartworm Information:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jljOSslkrnY&feature=related


:+) Joyce

I have been asked about Pet Insurance many times and

highly recommend you participating in a plan. I just saw this article posted by my vet clinic and thought it should be shared because it has some very good points to consider. :+)

Questions to Ask When Considering Which Pet Health Insurance to Buy

Pet Health Insurance Companies: Embrace Trupanion VPI Pet’s Best Hartville Petfirst Healthcare Petplan USA AKC 24PetWatch PurinaCare ASPCA Healthy Paws Consult your veterinarian for more information.

We all love our pets and many consider their pets to be their furry children. When they get sick we want to be able to take care of them properly. With technological advances in veterinary medicine, much more is available now in both diagnostics and treatment. Procedures such as MRI’s, CAT scans, chemotherapy, and radiation treatment are all common but they can be quite expensive. Many people are now considering pet health insurance to help with the costs. It is important to ask the correct questions when interviewing companies that offer this insurance, so you know what you’re getting.

Pet health insurance is different from “human” health insurance in the way that with pets, the doctor is paid first and then the pet owner is reimbursed by the insurance company. There are twelve companies offering pet health insurance in the United States and they differ in their policies. Other companies offer pet insurance in other countries. Some companies offer different levels of care. There basic plans that cover accidents and illness, as well as premium plans that cover all aspects of health and wellness.

Most plans do not cover pre-existing illnesses, and this may be important in how other symptoms are covered by your plan. If your pet, for instance, has an ear infection in its history, ask if in the future the pet is diagnosed with an allergy, but with other symptoms, if that will be covered. An ear infection is often caused by an allergy. If your cat has been treated in the past for vomiting, and is later diagnosed with another disease that can cause vomiting such as IBD or kidney disease, will that be covered?

Another issue with the pre-existing clause is that it is important to ask if your pet is evaluated for coverage when first obtaining the insurance, or with each renewal. For instance, if after you get the insurance, it pays for treating your dog’s ear infection, will another ear infection treatment be covered next year?

Many plans do not cover “genetic” diseases. With advances in DNA studies, veterinary medicine is discovering more and more diseases are genetic based. It is important to ask what diseases they consider to be genetic for the breed that you own.

Some policies cover only up to a certain age of your pet. Some do not cover prescription drugs or dental disease. Others have a yearly or lifetime dollar limit.

Most companies have a deductible and then pay a percentage of the bill, usually 80% to 90%. Some companies have a set dollar reimbursement for each problem or procedure.

Another consideration is whether to obtain a basic or premium plan. It is important to compare the costs of each option. In many cases, it may be more prudent to purchase the basic coverage.

A small percentage of pets are covered by health insurance at the present time but this is expected to change in the near future. More than 1600 companies, including Google and Office Depot, offer pet health insurance as an optional employee benefit.

PET INSURANCE

Hi everyone,

I think it is in your best interest to check out this link regarding pet insurance. The forum is called 'Doodle Kisses' and there is a ton of information on this very extensive site. One of the subjects was about pet insurance and many participated giving their opinions and showing comparisons.

Insurance for your pet is not expensive and some even offer compensation for well visits.

http://www.doodlekisses.com/forum/topic/search?categoryId=2065244%3ACategory%3A32549&q=pet+insurance

You might want to check this out. I don't use Heartworm Meds but

that is my choice. Many of you will and this might be good info to read for you. You will need to highlight and copy to your address bar.

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_heartworm_preventive_compariso.html

For a lot of excellent information about choosing a breeder.

Go to: www.dogplay.com

This is just an excerpt that I copied and found interesting. There are TONS of articles to read about and, I believe, all and any person looking for a puppy would gain lots of insight and avoid mistakes. I have not read them all yet, but I certainly intend to. I may not agree with everything written, but it sure is comprehensive! :+)

Just one of the articles:

Red Flags, Breeders you probably want to avoid

I'm really not a person who likes to use the words "never" or "always", so take the following as signs for caution. Yet, in some cases I will just have to use one of those words. Sorry, but keep reading, you will see.

• If you see a reference to a "registered breeder" and most especially to a "USDA" licensed or registered breeder just stop right there. The USDA concerns itself only with mass breeders. Mass breeders are breeding for the money. If there is ever a question between profits and the best interests of the dog, the dog loses. Please, don't let mass breeders profit from your money. If you want to check a particular breeder you can try http://www.nopuppymills.com/database.html

• "Champion bloodlines" is a term used by those who have no clue. A responsible breeder knows it just isn't a sales point. That doesn't mean that the responsible breeder won't brag about their dog's background. They do, and they should. But if neither the sire nor the dam has their own championship then the responsible breeder is going to be focusing on explaining why not, and how they know that the dogs are of good quality, and merely claiming "Champion bloodlines" is no evidence at all.

• "AKC registered" This is just as meaningful and just as important as a car advertisement claiming "DMV" registered. Yes, you want to know that, but no it is not a sales point. For more take a look on my article on "What does AKC mean?"
  
  A responsible breeder will include the information on the registry, so it's the tone or the focus you are looking at, not the mere inclusion of the information. If they think "AKC" is a selling point, they are clueless. Some breeds have their own registries that may be more careful than AKC, and in those cases listing the registry might be a selling point.

• Although there are reputable registries in the USA other than AKC and UKC (and CKC in Canada) there are also a lot that hand out completely meaningless "papers". Be especially cautious with any registry that has initials the same as a well-known registry. Be especially cautious of registries that complain of some imagined difficulty or expense in registering dogs through AKC. Look for excellent centralized record keeping, breed standards, and competitive events to determine degree to which a dog conforms to breed standards, and who controls registration requirements. Could you become an active participant in the process? If not, then doubt the registry.

• "Vet checked" is another meaningless term. Duh, it's like saying, "it runs" in a car ad. Not very impressive. Of course you want the puppy to be "vet checked" but if the breeder thinks that's a selling point they probably haven't CERF'd the puppies. Don't know what I mean when I said, "CERF'd" the puppies? Ooops, then you aren't ready to be talking to breeders yet. It's a basic eye check done in many breeds, and its one of the few tests that are actually done on both the puppies and their parents.

• Does the advertisement tell you the color of the puppies but not a word on health testing? Then expect someone who is a shallow breeder, breeding for appearance but ignoring health and temperament. This will either be because they don't care, or more likely because they lack the knowledge to do better. If you desire a healthy dog you will do better to get a random bred dog (mutt) over one where the breeder focuses on appearance but ignores genetic health.