Tuesday, February 10, 2009

The price of Labradoodles vary.

I can't answer for every other breeder out there because I do things so differently from most. My price is not because my lines are 'pure' Australian, because they are not. Nor do I breed early generation Labradoodles. To prevent a genetic bottleneck and diversity, I breed for Multi Generational Labradoodles from both American and Australian Labradoodle bloodlines. This allows me a wider gene pool and the flexibility to always choose the best pairing.

To begin, all my breeding dogs are extensively health tested to the highest degree available. Not only do I have prelims done (before a year), they are also tested at 2 years for certification. That means two times the costs! Prelim scores don't always hold as the dog is still developing, so a certified score is the one to be considered 'passing'. I also do annual eye CERF's, Thyroid, Blood & Chemical balances.  If the health scores of breeding dogs are not posted on a website, ask to see those scores personally on the official organization's letterhead. Just because a dog is tested, does not mean it passed!

I raise
all my litters until they are 10 weeks old. This is so that I can pass on many benefits to my customers.
  1. Reports have stated that spaying a female pup too early can cause a higher percentage of POSSIBLE urinary issues. Neutering a male pup can be done earlier, but I prefer them to be bigger than 8 weeks old. This saves the customer a bundle of money and prevents possible 'oops!' litters.  The optimal time for a spay/neuter is one year's old.  Doing it at 6 months is no better than doing it at 9 weeks according to the studies.  I am not in agreement with doing Early Spay and Neuter before 9 weeks.
  2. Eye issues are prevalent in all the breeds that comprise the Australian or American Labradoodles. I pay to have every one of my puppies eye CERF'd by a professional Canine Ophthalmologist. If a problem exists, I know it and so do you. We talk and come to an agreement about how to proceed.
  3. A professional and certified Animal Behaviorist is brought in twice to assess the litter and match applications to pups. This is so that both you and I know that the pup picked for you is the best possible match for temperament, energy and type.
  4. I perform Early Neurological Stimulation for 16 days on each pup beginning on its third day of life. This type of stimuli helps pups develop a higher ability to deal with life's stresses.
  5. There are numerous vet visits with the first being the removal of dew claws and a general check up at a day old. Your pup has their first set of puppy vaccines at 8 or 9 weeks old, a health certificate, worm check ups, etc. - on top of the spay/neuters. You need to continue their pup vaccines for the 12 and 16 week series.  I recommend Rabies at 6 months old when their immune systems are mature but most vets will not wait that long.
  6. Our dogs and puppies are raised on an organic raw chicken/turkey/deer diet along with fresh veggies and herbal supplements. I make them all breakfast with our organic raised hens' eggs as well. I can't even give you a cost comparison vs. commercial dog food. I do know they thrive on it.
  7. I spend lots of time on litter box training and sometimes even doggie door training when weather allows. Some basic obedience skills are introduced such as 'sit' and 'gentle' for taking food. 'No bite' is a constant command being used during this time. This training is a great benefit for people that live in buildings/cities and have limited yard space, if any. A balcony with a litter box serves very well for a 'bathroom'. Families with children benefit from the bite restraint introduction.
  8. There are a number of 'critical periods' puppies go through that can affect them forever. Keeping and navigating the pups through those critical times can prevent phobias from developing. This is very helpful for those people who have not had the opportunity to work with pups/dogs. It can prevent a lot of mistakes. I also include info for future critical periods for you to hopefully maneuver through. Working with a trainer is vital to developing a great companion dog and I require that you take your pup to classes during it's first year. Neglecting to do so voids our contract and warranty!
  9. Socialization and Visits. I spend enormous amounts of time scheduling visits for you to meet and play with the pups. Yes, it does present a risk, but I prefer that my customers see where and how the pups are raised. The benefits far outweigh the risks, as long as my protocol is followed to the letter. I have nothing to hide and the pups and you have everything to gain.
  10. Exceptional customer service. :+)
Temperament speaks volumes. A pup is a reflection of it's parentage. I believe our puppy price is the sum of well tested parents with a clear pedigree; and a clean and solid program. Careful selection of complementary temperaments with an exceptional diet and quality vet care are part of this equation. Good confirmation and proof of healthy generations shows strength in my lines. Include environmental stimulation, intro training, socialization, car rides and lots of love and you may understand why the cost. It is not about a price - it is about commitment to the development of a quality hybrid. Nothing is perfect, but they come darn close!

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